Nazi Couture: Raf Simons Autumn/Winter Collection 2007-2008
I live in San Francisco where a multitude of strange subcultures coexist. However one that has never taken a foothold which I think would give the city a new dimension is what I will refer to as Nazi Couture. In one sense, I imagine Nazi Couture as a group of self absorbed young males who are in their mid twenties. They experienced a life of political correctness so they battle this by waxing their hair back into a fine sheen, keeping their physiques impeccably sculptured, and generally looking menacing. Their clothes would undoubtedly need to project this image of sexy SS officer, and what better designer to look towards than Raf Simons.
His Autumn Winter 2007/2008 collection is so overtly Nazi Couture (I would almost refer to the collection as being very “trenchcoat mafia” in style but then this analogy kept grating on me in its pimple faced gawkiness). What defines the style in my mind is an aggressive, copious use of black. Mr. Simons uses black leather, black wool, black vinyl, black silk, and anything laying around that is black. The black, in Raf’s collection is made of several layers of black juxtaposed on to yet more blacks to create and even deeper and more effective blackness. It’s the kind of black that if you saw a man wearing one of Raf Simons’ ensembles on the street you would be afraid that he would come up to you and spank you on the ass and call you a dirty jew. What’s worse, the clothes are so perfectly cut and seductive that you’d want that person to spank you on the ass.
Not to over use the Nazi Couture thing too much, but I just wanted to point out one other theme in Mr. Simons’ collection that is in my mind Nazi-ish… or at least the superficial, fetishistic perception of Nazis getting dressed up for a really good party… and that is that Raf Simon’s collection includes a number of half and full arm length shiny black leather gloves as accessories to his clothes. They look eerily like cattle gloves, but are quite effective in the intimidation factor.